![]() ![]() So, even if your shifter is working, it's worth taking a look to see if it's really solid in there. At the top end, the detente plate was shimmed with 8 thin washers (all carefully cut into quarters) and the space between the shift arm and the return spring was shimmed with a nut. The bottom bearing was replaced with a piece of pvc pipe. In my case, the column had been opened up before and jury-rigged. The rubber boot on the firewall needs to come off. Behind it is the shift arm and one of the two bolts mounting the steering shaft to the firewall. The side attached to the steering shaft is already removed. Here's how it looked when I had the column out:Īs a final note, you never can tell what someone has done before you. A clearer shot of the 12 point bolt on the steering box side of the rag joint (far right). In the end, I didn't know the difference between the "moulding cover" and the "finish panel" (or any of the other parts) without a diagram. The shop manual has a name for every part of the dashboard. If I were doing this again, I would loosen it early-a shop light shining through the opening from behind makes the process of working under the hood easier. Image 6: The 55-57 ididit tilt steering columns are 3-1/2' shorter than the stock steering column. Next remove the two 5/16' X l' bolts that hold the bracket to the firewall and slide the bracket down, off the end of the steer ing column. Late in the process, I figured out that the rubber boot at the bottom of the column had to be loosened. Remove the upper 5/16'X 3' bolt and nut that squeezes the bracket around the steering column. You can see them way down there, on the far right of this shot: I know the process for the repair of the pressed hub but I have had to disassemble the directional signal assembly and a few other things popped up. Finally, I took off the corner brace and the valve cover, which gave me just enough room to get to the bolts on the firewall. Between the steering wheel and the telescoping adjusting sleeve is a press fit hub assembly and mine has separated. The brake master cylinder is in the way-but I just put that in and wasn't going to take it back out. Some instructions start with removal of the hood hinge, but I was worried about the hood being supported on one hinge. Most likely the neutral safety switch above the bottom of the steering column. I have long, skinny arms, but still had a terrible time getting to the bolts on the rag joint, and an even more difficult time reaching the two bolts on the firewall that mount the steering column. I thought I'd note them here in case they can help anyone in the future.Īs I posted earlier, I had a sloppy shifter and a completely broken rag joint (steering coupler) on my 64 hardtop. I read as many of them as I could before starting the job, but still found a few surprises. There are lots of posts in the archives on shifter repair and steering column removal.
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